Bida was once the capital of a Fulani-ruled emirate renowned in West Africa for its craft-works, which include decorative brass casting, embroidery, and glass bead making, as well as both men’s and women’s weaving. Nigeria; Yoruba (Ife) artist. Aso oke means "top cloth" in the English language, denoting cloth of high status. Click here to view our Nigerian women’s cloths for sale. From time immemorial, craftwork has been a source of livelihood for many Nigerians and this has encouraged archaeologists to explore more about the ancient Nigerian arts and crafts. Aso Oke (pronounced ah-SHOW-kay) is short for Aso Ilu Oke which literally interpreted means clothes from the countryside. Cloth is the Center of the World: Nigerian Textiles, Global Perspectives. Tues – Saturday, 10am – 5pm. Yoruba Aso Oke Textile Cotton Cloth Yellow Nigeria Africa Art: Type of Object: Textile: Country of Origin: Nigeria: People: Yoruba: Materials: Cotton, rayon: Approximate Age: 20th century: Height (in) 56: Width (in) 42: Overall Condition: Fair to good. virgin hair, 7a grade, free shipping, good quality human hair weaves.Plastic plaiting threads: used for variations of both braiding and weaving.The Traditional Significance of.Traditional Yoruba Hairstyles.I used to wear my hair, in a stick-up ponytail, with two braids on the side.Soultrain inspired me. “Use of Traditional Textiles Among the Aniocha Igbo of Mid-western Nigeria” in Idiens, D. & Ponting, K. 1980. Spinning complete, the yarn is dyed with vegetable dyes made from: kola nut for yellow, camwood for red, mango bark for beige and vitrex grandiflora for black. Eastern Yoruba: Among Yoruba and Yoruba related peoples such as the Igbomina, Ekiti, Yagba, and Bunu, there was relatively little of the male narrow strip aso oke weaving (which was primarily associated with the Oyo Yoruba.) “We weave it:” Akwete Weavers, their patrons, and Innovation in a Global Economy. It is unlike the typical cloth-making factory, which is equipped with machines to take the stress off the apprentice. In the years since the 1950s this kind of weaving has declined drastically in both the Yoruba and Igbo speaking regions of Nigeria, partly because it is an extremely slow and laborious process, but also because women now have wider opportunities for trading, education and other careers. Islam is now the dominant religion in the town, and women weave hidden in the passageways of labyrinthine mud-walled compounds to which non-family men are forbidden entrance. Ise Aso Ofi Nile Yoruba (Cloth Weaving) samueldpoetry Asa Yoruba , ise aso ofi , Yoruba culture No comments : Orisirisi ise ni o wa lawujo Yoruba; nitori iba meji ko, bi ko se pe Yoruba korira iwa ole ati iwa imele sise. At the top a strip of silk Asante kente. Murray, K. 1936. Apr 5, 2014 - Backed Yoruba men's weave from Oye Ekiti, 1951 or 52, when Fr. Okeke, C.S. Some mid century aso oke cloths I collected recently in Nigeria, available now from adireafricantextiles.com. Instead large numbers of women wove predominantly indigo-dyed wrapper cloths, both for domestic use and for trade. “Textile Production and Gender in the Sokoto Caliphate” in Journal of African History 34 1. Also, processing of cotton to cloth was a source of livelihood for most cotton-farming … If you are in the United Kingdom why not visit us at Alfie’s Antique Market, 13-25 Church St, London NW8. Perani, J. Adire African Textiles is a London based gallery dedicated to exploring the vintage textile traditions of sub-Saharan Africa. Private collection, London. Borgatti, J. In the C16th and later Portuguese slave traders bought huge numbers of indigo dyed cloths woven on these looms from the Ijebu and Benin for sale in Congo, Gold Coast and even Brazil. The fibres used for weaving are either locally sourced or brought from neighboring states (northern parts of the country). The cloths were once traded along the coastal lagoons to the Niger delta region where they became known as ikakibite or “tortoise cloth” and highly prized in local rituals. Die lara won ni ise agbe, aso hihun, aso didi, ode sise, ise akewi, ilu lilu, agbede, ati bee lo. It is also sometimes refereed to as Aso-Ofi. Bands of weft float decoration representing designs such as crocodile, frog, elephant, and koran board, are alternated with bands of shaggy pile weave. Nupe: the Nupe live along the river Niger in central Nigeria, around their capital of Bida. Clothing in Yoruba culture is gender sensitive: males and females wear different designs. Northern Edo: the Northern or Akoko Edo are a culturally diverse range of peoples living in small villages to the south and west of the town of Okene. In the art traditions of pre-colonial Africa male and female roles were usually clearly defined. & Mack J. African Textiles (1989, 2nd Edition) The Yoruba in Nigeria reserved this cloth for funerals, religious rituals, and other formal occasions. Nupe Crafts: the Dynamics of Change in Nineteenth and Twentieth Century Weaving and Brass Working (PhD thesis, University of Indiana) Aronson, L. 1989. The fibres used for weaving are either locally sourced or brought from neighboring states (northern parts of the country) Although these are largely traditions in decline (including in Okene in the past few years,) fine examples of older cloths can still be found, and where the weaving continues, as in Akwete, some very high quality new cloths are woven for local use. We now offer FREE SHIPPING worldwide (with FedEx for international orders.) Figurative designs on early aso oke are extremely rare. Afigbo, A. 1987. Women spin the weaving fibres from cotton, wool and local silk (anaphe infracta or anaphe moloyeni moth). 1980. Renne, E. 1992. Hand spun cotton. To th… This long piece is then taken to a tailor who cuts it into pieces, sews it together, and sometimes hand embroiders it. In the C19th the north eastern Yoruba and their neighbours wove large quantities of cloths which were traded to the north. Nigerian Weaving Aremu, P. 1982. From shop HeddleAndLamm. Detail: Figurative designs on early Yoruba aso oke are extremely rare. Wrapper, mens, narrow-band weaving, cotton with rayon supplementary weft, handwoven by a Yoruba male, Ilorin, Western Nigeria, 1950-1966 Handwoven cloth from Ilorin in Yoruba, Western Nigeria. For instance, cloth weaving is commonly practiced by people in Abia State, Kogi State, Okene and popular Yoruba cities like Ibadan, Abeokuta, Oshogbo, and Ile-Ife. Kente cloth could be viewed as a visual representation of the people’s history, philosophy, ethics, oral literature, religious belief, social values and political thought. They have Aso ibile, the traditional clothes of various types and shades. Ashoké (aso oke) is the most prestigious hand-woven cloth of the Yoruba people of southwestern Nigeria.The name literally means "top cloth". In sub-Saharan Africa sculptors in wood and metal were almost invariably male, while in most but not all areas potters were women. In central and northern Nigeria, where there has been less development, the picture is brighter. Detail: Yoruba aso oke woman's wrapper cloth, circa 1900. The earliest known example of this type of cloth, in the Royal Scottish Museum, Edinburgh, dates from as early as 1790. The Yoruba cloth were originally woven to serve as underwear and waist wrappers which were designed for hunting, farming and manual labours. Of these centres Ilorin, Iseyin (the two most prolific centres of narrow strip weaving among the Yoruba) and Owo appear to … The cloth weaving centres were concentrated in central and northern Yorubaland in places such as Akoko, Owo, Ekiti, Ondo, Osogbo, Ibadan, Iseyin, Oyo and Ilorin divisions. The Yoruba silk was dyed with cochineal in North Africa and reached Nigeria by camel caravan across the Sahara until the trade ended around 1910. Also known as Àwon omo (which literarily means ‘The Children of Yoruba), the Yoruba tribe reportedly constitute over 40 million people generally, including those in Southern and Central Benin.In Nigeria, this wonderful tribe boasts 21% of the population, making them a major tribe and one of the largest ethnic groups in the Western Africa country.The Yoruba are surrounded by some minor ethnic groups in Nigeria as well as in Benin. Features Yoruba cloth and clothes and other items of material culture in the collections of the Royal Albert Museum, Exeter. Cloth that does not die: the meaning of cloth in Bunu social life. Both male and female have different types and it is an aberration then for a man to wear a woman’s clothes and vice versa. “Akwete Weaving: Tradition and Change” in Engelbrecht, B. The Yoruba for weaving is hun. Kente cloth originated in the Ashanti Kingdom (17th century AD), but it has its roots in a long tradition of weaving in … The picture below (taken in the 1960s) shows senior women from the royal family in a small village called Somorika wearing locally woven cloths, some of which mix hand spun cotton with white linen-like thread called “ebase” obtained from tree bark. (5) And over his shoulder were draped strips of various types of cloth and fabric. The Yoruba have peculiar types of clothes that make them distinct from other cultures. Oni figure. Man Does Not Go Naked 1983. Detail: Yoruba aso oke woman's wrapper cloth, circa 1900. rare mixed strip design, hand spun indigo dyed cotton and magenta silk. Akwete women use a uniquely wide version of the loom, allowing a single width of cloth to form a women’s wrapper. Fragments of raffia fibre cloth that may have been woven on this kind of loom uncovered at Igbo Ukwu in southeast Nigeria were dated to the C9th AD. The cloth is made from cotton, with rayon supplementary weft patterns. We work with a network of partners throughout West Africa to source exceptional museum quality textiles for clients worldwide that include leading museums, private collectors, and interior designers. Weaving Tradition in Igboland In the south of Nigeria it only survives today on a very small scale in a few areas where local specialisations are still in demand, notably in the Yoruba town of Ijebu-Ode, and far to the east in the Igbo village of Akwete. The Yoruba are famous for Aso-Oke traditional fabric weaving. The cloth is made by weaving one forty foot or more four inch band of cloth. Cloth weaving (Aso-Oke) started centuries ago amongst the Yoruba’s but predominantly amongst the Iseyin’s (Oyo-State), Ede (Osun State) and Okene Kogi State. Renne, E. 1992. Textiles of Africa Jun 29, 2017 - Aso oke is the strip woven cloth tradition of (until recently) male weavers in the Yoruba speaking region of South western Nigeria. Aronson, L. 1992. Further Reading: Akwete: This small town just north of the city of Port Harcourt is one of the last centres of a once much wider tradition of Igbo women’s weaving. It matches the cloth one of the magi figures … Renne, E. 1995. Exeter, UK: Exeter City Museums. The Igbo also are known widely for Akwete-cloth weaving which is basically done by women. 5 out of 5 stars (296) 296 reviews. *A woman weaving Akwete cloth. 1980. It is a cloth worn by people of high social status in the olden … Nupe woman weaving in her home in the central Nigerian town of Bida, 1995. Usually woven by men and women, the fabric is used to make men's gowns, called agbada and hats, called fila, as well as women's wrappers, called iro and head tie, called gele. It is famous throughout eastern Nigeria for the quality of the cloths produced there which are highly prized for the Igbo women’s ceremonial dress known as “Up and Down”, in which two cloths are wrapped around the body, one at the waist, the other under the arms. Text by Len Pole. These cloths are worn as insignia of office by members of a once powerful association of elders known as Oshugbo (or Ogboni). Cloth production entails a division of labour. Back in the days, the Yoruba people had very big cotton farms. “The Decline of Women’s Weaving Among the North-east Yoruba” in Textile History 23. Cloth as Metaphor White cotton shawl made of sewn together strip-woven lengths with supplementary weft patterning of stripes and triangles in light purple and green and a warp technique made to look like an open or drawn work-like design. (3) wipe clean with a damp cloth (4) The other main form of visual art is silk and cotton woven cloth with elaborate and subtle patterns and colors. The all silk strips with narrow float patterns in the weft are also a rare feature. 36 x 14 Neutral Beige Yoruba Cloth Long Lumbar Pillow Cover - Vintage African Handwoven Fabric HeddleAndLamm. Yoruba weaving: Abstract: The Yoruba are known for their craftsmanship most especially in the weaving of home made traditional cloths. Textiles of Africa Kevin Carroll was at the Catholic Mission. All you will need is to attach the threads to something stable like a table clamp, hook or doorknob. Alongside a lot of very obscure and localised traditions of cloth decoration, they wove fine indigo wrappers from hand-spun cotton. ... cast bronze figures from the ancient Yoruba site at Ife (12-15th Century A.D.) show royalty wearing cloth wrappers that may well have been woven on upright frame looms similar to the type Yoruba women weavers use today. Picton J. Among the central Oyo Yoruba and in northern Nigeria women’s weaving overlapped with that of men using the double-heddle loom, but in other districts, in particular among the Igbo in eastern Nigeria women were the only weavers. [includes discussion of Yoruba weaving and cloth dyeing] Gilfoy, Peggy Stoltz. This paper covers Oyo and Ogun States of Nigeria with special reference to centers such as Ogbomosho, Oyo and Iseyin in Oyo State, and Owu-Ijebu in Ogun State of Nigeria. “Yoruba Traditional Weaving: Kijiipa Motifs, Colour and Symbols” in Nigeria Magazine 140 Until very recently the double-heddle narrow strip loom was used only by men, as were certain types of single heddle loom, such as ground looms and Central African raffia looms. Ijebu-Ode: The capital of the ancient Yoruba speaking kingdom of Ijebu, its women weavers produce a distinctive style of highly ornate cloth known as aso olona, cloth with decorations or art. in Tornatore, S. ed. “Aso Ipo: Red Funeral Cloth from Bunu” in African Arts 25 Aso oke fabric, (Yoruba: așǫ oke, pronounced ah-SHAW-okay) is a hand-woven cloth created by the Yoruba people of west Africa. FUNCTIONS OF YORUBA WOMEN’S HAND-WOVEN TEXTILES Yoruba women’s hand-woven cloth was produced in large strips which Lamb It is a hand woven cloth made mostly by the Yoruba tribe of south west Nigeria. The Yoruba cloth manufacturers enjoy the occupational satisfaction in cotton growing, dyeing, spinning, weaving and fabric embellishments, and are all together dedicated in demonstration of skills. Finger weaving is a basic weaving technique that doesn’t require any equipment. With weaving the picture is more complex. Akwete Igbo women weavers then produced similar designs, although they are clearly distinguishable by the wider panels woven. A late 19th century picture of an ashoke weaver, one of the earliest known photos of this production. Yoruba is first race to develop concept of cloth weaving in the world —Ooni - Tribune NewsPaper - Madailygist Aside from the superb accounts of Bunu weaving by Renne there is little documentation of the wide variety of indigo cloths that were woven in this region. & Gardi, B. eds. Here I will gather a curated selection of early and otherwise significant examples, drawn both from museum collections and our archive at Adire African Textiles, Africa | Wrapper / shawl from the Yoruba people of Nigeria | Silk and cotton. 1977. How Aso-Oke Cloth Weaving Industry Began. Patterns of life: West African strip-weaving … Ofi refers to the seat of the weavers sit on when weaving the cloth. Poyner, R. 1980. Yoruba aso oke woman's wrapper cloth, circa 1900. rare mixed strip design, hand spun indigo dyed cotton and magenta silk. In this aso oke fabric weaving factory, the blood is the fuel that propels the crocheting that gets the synthetic fibers woven together, to form fascinating patterns of aso oke fabric. “Women’s weaving among the Yorubas of Omu-aran in Ilorin Province” in Nigerian Field 5 Fragments: mostly C19th silk and indigo Yoruba aso oke cloth. (1) a cloth bag (2) English wool and cloth were exported for profit, and French wine imported for pleasure. “Ijebu Yoruba Aso Olona” in African Arts 25 “History of Cloth Trade in the Niger Delta: a study of diffusion.” in Idiens, D. & Ponting, K. 1980. 1980. In the years since the 1950s this kind of weaving has declined drastically in both the Yoruba and Igbo speaking regions of Nigeria, partly because it is an extremely slow and laborious process, but also because women now have wider opportunities for trading, education and other careers. Aronson, L. 2001. & Okeke, C. 1985. Picton J. Find more Yoruba words at wordhippo.com! Among the huge range of designs produced is a version of the Ijebu aso olona, which they have woven since at least the C19th for sale to the Ijaw people of the Niger Delta to the south. Here I will gather a curated selection of early and otherwise significant examples, drawn both from museum collections and our archive at Adire African Textiles. Traditional attire for men is four-piece outfit, which consists of Sokoto (loosely fitted pants), Buba (top), Agbada (wide-sleeved robe), and Fila (hat). This C19th example, now in the Musee du Quai Branly, Paris, has weft float motifs representing horses woven in silk on a hand spun cotton ground. highlight cloth-weaving traditions done by women in specific Yoruba towns include the studies of Murray (1936), Clarke (1938), Bray (1968), Poynor (1980) and Renne (1995), amongst others. Textiles of Africa Today, we wish to present you Yoruba Didi hairstyles. Among the textiles they wove in the past are elaborate marriage cloths known as “duna”, and some beautiful predominantly red wrapper cloths. Djerma Cloth and Hausa Cloth (Niger, Nigeria) Djerma Cloth and Hausa Cloth are made from four to eight inch wide strips. A big difference with other weaving methods is that you won’t need separate weft and warp threads since the threads will function as … Aronson, L. 1980. It seems likely that this is an ancient technique in the region, although it may have spread up into northern Nigeria only in the early nineteenth century. Photo by Duncan Clarke. Aso oke is the strip woven cloth tradition of (until recently) male weavers in the Yoruba speaking region of South western Nigeria. “Women’s Weaving: the Manufacture and Use of Textiles Among the Igbirra People of Nigeria.” in Idiens, D. & Ponting, K. 1980. This C19th example, now in the Musee du Quai Branly, Paris, has weft float motifs representing horses woven in silk on a hand spun cotton ground. The asymmetric layout on these warp striped cloths echoes that used on many two panel women's weave cloths. While single pieces of ashoke are sometimes worn on a daily basis, complete ashoke outfits are worn during major ceremonies such as weddings, funerals, naming ceremonies and important religious festivals. “Traditional Textiles in Owo, Nigeria” in African Arts 14 Weaving in Southern Nigeria by Lisa Aronson Skidmore College. There are still a relatively large number of women using these looms in the Ebira town of Okene, the Nupe capital Bida, and in Hausa cities, particularly Kano. There was however a large area extending from parts of Togo, across Benin and Nigeria into western Cameroon where women wove, using single heddle looms mounted upright against a house wall. Cloth weaving (Aso-Oke) started centuries ago amongst the Yoruba’s but predominantly amongst the Iseyin’s (Oyo-State), Ede (Osun State) and Okene Kogi State. It is a particular interest on mine at the moment and we are encountering numerous previously unrecorded local styles as we reach new areas. Lamb, V. & Holmes, J. See more ideas about african textiles, museum collection, aso oke. Today there is very little weaving in the area, with perhaps one or two elderly ladies still active in each area. 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